Title: "Reflections on The Island of Morro San Paulo two days after returning to Brazil."
Author: Eric Collins
The past few days of my life, like many since arriving here, seem to have passed by as though caught in a day dream. Details have lost tangibility; obscure now, like trying to watch the bottom of a chlorine hotel pool.
I woke up yesterday, looked around, checked my alarm, and found the once crisp contours of Morro San Paulo somehow hard to grasp, somehow impossible.
I had seen things so beautiful, so short a time ago; it is difficult to be sure they were real.
We left on a catamaran Friday afternoon from Salvador's "lower city," the industrialized, once marginalized, working class districts overlooked by the wealth saturated "upper city," which looms prosperous in the distance atop a high cliff wall. It is as though at some point in the distant past, Brazilian architects decided to take the idea of being "upper" class quite literally.
The catamaran ride was 3 hours of Open Ocean. I took a preemptive Dramamine, laid out on the exposed deck, drank cheap (bad) Brazilian soda, and had no idea what I was getting myself into.
The island of Morro appears like a tease in the distance. Visible almost the entire trip, yet frustratingly out of range, it suddenly and abruptly becomes a reality 15 minutes before shore. The island looks like what an island would look like if every tropical island poster and tropical island calendar and propagandistic tropical resort hotel pamphlet were boiled down, ground up, and coalesced toward some fantasy Hollywood vision of a post colonial paradise. We docked at the remains of a 17th century Portuguese sea wall, perforated by crumbled foundation or the roots of some defiant palm. The boat let us off at the base of a concrete ramp, heading towards a huge ancient arch, deteriorating and sun shocked - a sight straight out of peter pan to a tee.
Immediately, as they always do, the locals swarmed. We heard shouts. 'taxi, taxi,' and expected to be lead toward awaiting cabs that would ferry us toward our hotel. Not so. In Morro, ´taxi´ means ´guy with old wheel barrel who will pile up girls luggage and roll it through the sand.´
There are no roads in Morro, only sand paths stretch the entire length and width. ´Taxi.´
So, we walked. ´no thanks, I can carry my own luggage´ (a book bag, I pack light). We walked for 20 minutes along the quaintest, cutest, most touristified island town imaginable. Imagine if the Outer Banks had class, took itself less seriously, or had even the least cursory inkling of authenticity. Then multiply that by Brazil, replace the roads and cars with sand and wheel barrels, and set it in a 300 year old ex colonial dreamland. Morro was gorgeous. The sand was white like confectioner sugar, and of similar consistency. It felt like walking on fresh snow, if fresh snow were 100 degrees in the sun, lighter, whiter, and silk-like to the touch. It didn't make any sense. The sand in Morro made no sense.
Our hotel was just past ´beach 3.´
They name the beaches by numbers here. I found this refreshing. they could've chose to name them some quasi legitimate approximation of some indigenous island mumbo jumbo whose meaning, assuming it had any to begin with, would be lost on us and a joke to them. ´Here is umi-jumi-lookamogo beach.´ Instead, they name them by numbers, and it was refreshingly honest.
Our hotel was less a hotel and more a collection of island bungalows, connected by crudely constructed wooden foot bridges, interspersed with palm trees and oversized purple, red, or yellow hibiscus.
We arrived late, settled in, and went out. The ´night club´ was a section of beach cordoned off and ringed with ´bartenders´ which were people who threw locally grown pineapple, orange, mango, strawberry, or whatever you want into a blender, tossed in a little vodka, and called it a cocktail. The beach club was fun.
The next day though - I'm going to try to explain the next day.
We woke up early and booked an impromptu ´tour guide´, which was basically a local guy with a boat who for a fraction of the travel agencies price would take us anywhere on the island, drop us off, and pick us up whenever. He said 20 a person, and when he realized there were 30 of us, looked as happy as any person I've seen in my life. 600 real is minimum wage for 2 months, he made it in one day, and was understandably ready to do whatever for us whenever for us.
First we went snorkeling around a small reef just off shore. Awesome. Then we went to a ´pink mud bath´, supposed to great for your skin, My friends and I weren't excited and didn't intend to partake. This didn't matter; of course, because once the girls realized we had gone off alone and not jumped in the mud they proceeded to attack us, pelt us, and didn't give up until we had found ourselves covered.
That was cool, but the next place we visited was too much. It was too much.
I'm going to try to explain this and it isn't going to work.
Our boatmen took us to a natural sandbar. Wait - let me explain this. Our boatmen took us to a natural sandbar in the open ocean, surrounded by a triad of deserted islands at no less then a half mile away each. A series of sand bars barely exposed, only available for an hour or so each day. A series of sand bars you could navigate by trekking through the football sized complex of waist deep, boiling hot, island sun heated water which connected them.
The thirty of us separated, silently and intuitively, as though so overwhelmed we knew not what else to do. I sat down and did nothing but think about life for an hour. It was a scene and a scenario the English language - a language whose full faculties I am always endeavoring to grasp - seems to offer no hope of justified description. We left, visited another series of inexplicably beautiful islands, and were perpetually, consistently, struck dumb.
We left the coastal keys of morro and returned to the previously described main island dock. My friend Alex had injured her foot the night before. She had stepped barefoot on some reef while swimming the day before, gashed the bottom of it, and by now the entire sole of her foot was a purplish blue mass of bruises and blood blisters. The ´taxi' guys took her back to the hotel via wheel barrel, a sight probably more amusing to all of us then it was to poor Alex. I however was in the mood for walking. I've never been a fan of boats, and the current and waves had picked up for the trip back. Solid land, when you've been tossed around helplessly in a make-shift dingy for 45 minutes, is a welcomed relief.
I decided to spend the second half of the day on the beach, which considering I had spent the first half of the day on a different beach, meant that I was pretty- much a happy kid. My stomach though, had basically had enough. I hadn't mentioned that at one point, while snorkeling, I accidentally swallowed a bit of sea water. By ´swallowed a bit´ I mean that I basically chugged about a liter's worth. Immediately, I vomited. Vomited a lot, actually. I didn't mention it because it wasn't a huge event really, I sucked it up and enjoyed the rest of the day, but the combination of that initial vomit, the several nauseating boat rides, constant dehydration, and lack of sleep culminated in a short Saturday night that night. I decided to take it easy.
The next day my goal was the Morro zip line. Wow. The Morro zip line was atop a cliff. Let me explain the setup- this was a 200 plus foot vertical wall of volcanic rock. At the top was built, as an eight year old might, an insignificant Hodge podgy platform of 2x4s and plywood. Above that, anchored to some ancient colonial Portuguese stone embankment, were two steel cables. The cables stretched the full length of ´beach 1´, their ends attached to the bare rock of some dead reef 600 feet or so diagonally down to the water.
Now, why I had to convince anyone jumping off that cliff was a good idea is beyond me. However, as it turns out, not everyone in the group was immediately down for the idea. Me though, I wanted to jump off that cliff more than anything and nobody was going to tell me otherwise.
As it were, jumping solo didn't prove necessary. After a few hours of tactfully coercing my constituency, I'd comprised a band of four other fellow miscreants. We headed for the base of the cliff, some how not registering the thought that in order to jump off a mountain, one must first climb up it. In the heat, tired, and anxious, a near vertical foot climb is quite a thing.
Worth it, though, because when we reached the summit and the Tirpoleza base there was this view. This view - I'm going to tell you something - this view was like few things most people see in a life time. And I had seen views in my time, let me tell you that. From the peak of this cliff though you could nearly see the entire island, it's surrounding network of reefs, beaches, and the dense tropical fauna of its interior. Spellbound.
Spellbound, and more than ever ready to jump off a cliff.
25 real and a mountain climber's harness later, I was standing at the edge of the aforementioned collection of ragtag wood planks, attached via two steel clips to the cables above, looking over the edge at knife sharp crags of rock below, trusting my life to the ingenuity of a couple scraggly Brazilians.
I jumped,
Enjoyed a few seconds of free fall, and then hung upside down as the cables caught my weight, spinning and speeding me through, without contention, the most amazing near life experience a person could hope for.
Imagine being upside down, hundreds of feet in the air, with the vast blue Atlantic to your left, the cliff wall behind you, miles of thick jungle foliage to your right, and an impending explosion of reef-rinked cove water awaiting you a few hundred feet just ahead.
Ridiculous.
Go to Brazil, take a catamaran to Morro San Paulo, realize I'm not prone to exaggeration.